Eastern countries are always exotic to Europeans. Even if a city is made entirely of glass skyscrapers, there’s still something “special” in its atmosphere, and through the uniform street layout and the panorama of typical high-rises, an elusive Eastern charm shines through.
A vivid example is the United Arab Emirates, the most developed country in the Middle East. This nation is younger than many of us: by the end of 2025, it will turn 54. The country’s rapid development began even later — only with the surge in oil prices. In just a decade and a half, the rulers of the Emirates transformed their desert territories into thriving metropolises, suitable both for living and for leisure.
Sharjah, the capital of the eponymous emirate in the UAE, is a cultural center of the Middle East and the entire Islamic world. At first glance, it may look like hundreds of other cities made of glass and concrete. But once you are there, catching the scent of eternal summer and the vibrant hum of the colorful bazaars, you won’t mistake it for any other place on Earth. The East is not just subtle — it is exquisitely subtle. And to truly taste it, you must immerse yourself completely.
Sharjah has almost no old historical buildings. Only a small central district called the “Heritage Area” preserves the atmosphere of the old settlement. Before the oil era, Sharjah was a small village of fishermen and pearl divers, and today, of traditional crafts, only shipbuilding remains. Large wooden dhows, built using the same centuries-old techniques, still dock in Sharjah’s port.
The Old Sharjah Market is a special place. Local residents rarely visit — souvenirs and bright fabrics are of little interest to them. Yet through its shop windows, you can read the entire history of this town. Clusters of beads and brightly colored small boxes shaped like animals, fish, and birds are brought here from India. Nothing like this is made in the Emirates — nor could it be. The UAE is a deeply religious country, and under Islamic law, depicting humans or living creatures is strictly forbidden, as it is seen as a daring attempt to imitate God. That is why ornamentation — usually geometric, less often floral — is the main artistic element in Islamic countries. Eastern artisans are unrivaled in creating intricate patterns: almost all major mosques are decorated with them from foundation to minaret.
Indians play a very visible role in Sharjah and in the Emirates as a whole — not only because they bring anthropomorphic and animal-shaped souvenirs. India is one of the main sources of labor for the UAE, along with Pakistan, Iran, and other countries in Asia and the Middle East. Expatriates actually make up more than 85% of the UAE population! The remaining 15% are ethnic Arabs, UAE citizens. Foreigners cannot obtain Emirati citizenship, no matter how long they live in the country or how much money they invest. The only exception is for foreign women married to Emirati men; after reviewing her request, an Arab court may grant her citizenship.
Unlike Indian women, Arab women do not publicly wear bright jewelry. They all wear long black robes down to the ankles, with long sleeves, and their heads are covered with thick black scarves. Some even cover their faces with a black veil. In Islam, black symbolizes modesty and equality, and it is used universally in women’s clothing. That is why the bright cashmere scarves from Pakistan and colorful Turkish dresses at the Old Market are mainly for foreign visitors. Women are a tiny minority in this country: 70% of the UAE population (including migrant workers) are men. Polygamy is also common, so female beauty is valued in the Emirates perhaps more than anywhere else in the world.
Almost all jewelry at the market is made from natural stone. In the countries from which these trinkets are imported, sourcing and processing natural stone is cheaper than producing high-quality plastic. Sellers suggest a simple test: take a string of beads in each hand and squeeze them into fists. Plastic beads (made specifically for this test) warm quickly in your hand, while stone beads remain cool for a long time.
The second most common products at the stalls are antiques — or items that the sellers themselves classify as antiques. Old coins from Europe and America, banknotes featuring Saddam Hussein — the deposed dictator of neighboring Iraq — antique radios, ancient or vintage-style iron jugs and plates, antique furniture, and carpets: rare and stylish items are literally piled high. Each of them tells a piece of the story of this unusual country.
Not long ago, the UAE reached the level of the world’s most developed countries, and items now in antique shops were once true family heirlooms, kept for decades. Today, as Emirati homes fill with modern technology, they are no longer needed. Tourists, however, are fascinated by half-century-old tape recorders or postcards depicting postwar Paris.
The cheerful sellers of Sharjah’s Old Market actively invite visitors to their stalls, but there is not a hint of pushiness. They all speak English well and are happy to demonstrate their goods on request. Curious about how Arabic incense smells? A vendor will give you a mini-lecture on the different fragrant herbs and demonstrate each scent.
These people are the heirs of long-standing trading dynasties. Their ancestors arrived from Iran over a century ago and began trading at the Old Market. Most of them are likely not UAE citizens either, as the privileges granted to the native population are so generous that locals do not need to earn a living behind a counter. For example, education and healthcare are free for UAE citizens, and many private spas, golf clubs, pools, and entertainment centers are free for them as well.
Yet the lack of opportunities to settle permanently does not deter foreigners who move here for good. Firstly, in such a rapidly developing country, there are more than enough jobs for everyone. Secondly, there are no taxes — only banks and hotels share a small percentage of profits with the state, while all other businesses are fully exempt.
However, being a tax haven is not Sharjah’s main identity. Sunny Sharjah is, above all, a wonderful place for inspiration. The clean, clear colors of its surroundings, the intricate Eastern charm of its interiors, the colorful characters on the streets and in the markets — and above all, the eternal summer and warm sea — are enough to pull any artist out of a creative slump. If you are looking for colors and light, this is the place to be. And don’t forget to bring another Moleskine notebook!
Text and photos by Yulia Zemtsova
Translated from Russian by Sofia Zemtsova
